Vacation in Swedish Countryside
or Journey to Infinity
We're heading to a small fishing village named Hall-Hangvar, with the aim of seeing the Rauks. This place is on an island to the east of Sweden: Gotland Island. We've been vacationing here for two weeks. After a beautiful day in Lickershamn, the rain begins. Before heading home, we want to see the Rauks and the view from the hill.
As we reach the edge of the shore, a steep hill appears before us. At the top of the hill lies a small fishing village, and beyond it, the Rauks emerge from the sea like nature's sculptures. Behind us, there are a few houses, and in front of them, sloping down to the shore, are colorful fisherman's huts, unique to Sweden. The sky is gray, but bright and illuminated. The sea is the same way—flat and seemingly endless. This place is like infinity, but the thought doesn't occur to me at the moment. It's not a place you think about; it's a place you belong to. There's no need for action or even thought. If you're here and a part of it, you're experiencing it. No past, no future; just now. This place is here; the world is here; the universe is here. And I'm a part of it. I belong here. Everything is just as it should be—nothing missing, nothing extra.
The flat shore stones adorned with fossils carrying traces of millions of years. The skipping stones on the water's surface make us lose ourselves in time. I don't know how much time has passed, but I feel like I could stay here indefinitely. At this point, I feel whole and complete. I am a part of nature, the universe, the creator.
The next day, we take a short ferry ride to Fårö Island. However, this beautiful adventure is coming to an end. We're leaving tomorrow. First, we decide to see the Rauks again. This time, the shapes of the Rauks are completely different. Gray and matte steel-like stones, almost like lacework, adorn a shoreline that stretches for miles. The rising Rauks sometimes resemble slumbering giants, sometimes ancient sea stacks formed millions of years ago, and even extraordinary beings beyond our descriptions. The sun is shining above us, but the pleasant 20-degree weather makes this place even more special. We climb among the Rauks like goats, bending and twisting. Every corner, every turn, every rise and fall presents us with a brand new and enchanting view. Here, again, I feel the same sense of belonging. I feel complete and whole in this place. It's not just a sense of belonging; it's a sense of being a part of a whole. I am here, and it is a part of me. It's beyond belief, related to feeling and knowing. To feel myself completely. To be a part of infinity. Even death isn't scary here.
Lars von Trier's film "Melancholia" and Tarkovsky's film "The Sacrifice" tell the stories of families waiting for the end of the world. Both homes are by the sea and are located in Sweden. As I gaze at the infinite sea in Hall-Hangvar, I understand why Sweden is known for its simplicity in design, architecture, and fashion. I understand why great directors wait for the end of the world in Sweden. Because here, waiting for the end of the world, for infinity, is possible. This place is a part of me. And there's no end.
If you spend your vacation in southern Sweden, you might expect an experience similar to the Baltic Sea coastal areas in Germany. The houses are elegant, comfortable, and surrounded by green lawns here. However, areas like Gotland Island and Sneslinge, located north of Stockholm, offer a more natural and primitive vacation experience. Spending time in rural homes where you're close to nature allows you to enjoy rest and a deep connection to nature.
When vacationing on Gotland Island, the first thing you'll notice is the stunning beauty of nature. If you bring a bicycle, you can enhance your experience even more. The wide forests, flower-filled meadows, and clear blue sky in the island's interior will enchant you. Taking nature walks lets you fully experience peace and tranquility, making you forget how time passes while listening to the birds.
For sea lovers, Gotland Island offers fantastic places to swim in the cool Baltic Sea waters or turquoise pools, basking under the sun. When the stone quarries on the island are not in use, the natural pools left behind become excellent alternatives for cooling off.
For history enthusiasts, Gotland Island is a treasure trove, housing ancient Viking remains and medieval towns. The city of Visby, one of Gotland's most famous spots, is even included in the UNESCO World Heritage list. It also has historical ties with Istanbul and was referred to as "Miklagard" in the past. The medieval walls, narrow streets, and historical buildings create an atmosphere that transports you to the past. The Medieval Week held in August further enlivens this atmosphere.
The Gotland cuisine adds another dimension to your vacation experience. Fresh seafood and local delicacies will tantalize your taste buds. When we visited Visby, we enjoyed a saffron pancake in a sweet café. This saffron-flavored pancake is actually a saffron-flavored baked rice pudding. It's served with dewberry sauce, a forest berry resembling raspberries and blackberries. Known as "Salmbär" in the local Gotland language, this berry adds a unique touch. Another unforgettable flavor for me was smoked seafood (shrimp or prawn, I'm not sure). Freshly baked sourdough bread spread with butter, a glass of Gotland's white wine, and smoked seafood that you dig into with your hands as a family activity.
Another unique taste we encountered last summer, and this year we were too early there, is the 'Kräftskiva' festival involving a type of crayfish. This delicacy, just like Germany's white asparagus, is available only during certain seasons. Surprisingly, it's imported extensively from Turkey, from places like Elazig or Tunceli, without us realizing. According to information from the Swedish tourism site, this tradition dates back to the 16th century when eating crayfish became fashionable among royalty. A hundred years later, crayfish started being consumed on a larger scale in Sweden. In the 19th century, people from the middle class would participate in the 'Kräftsupé', a feast where shellfish and alcoholic beverages were served, late into the night. This tradition has evolved into 'Kräftskiva' (literally 'crab table') since the 1930s, referring to any table laden with all sorts of food and drinks for ordinary consumers. Although there's no longer a strict seasonal limit (there is in practice), crayfish are largely imported nowadays, not exclusively from Swedish waters. However, this social tradition still holds its charm, and many Swedes celebrate the last warm summer evenings with a festive crayfish party.
Yes, the warm summer evenings of Sweden... This summer, although not as hot as last year, brought us a much more beautiful and sunny season compared to the rainy and gray 16 degrees we returned to in Germany. And to this Mediterranean girl, with no apparent connection to Nordic culture, Sweden managed to make me feel completely at home. So, for you, whether you're drawn to the tranquility of the countryside, the charm of historical towns, or the breathtaking beauty of nature, Sweden has something to offer for every traveler. It's a destination that will leave you with cherished memories and a longing to return.
